Today it's been exactly two months that I am in this lovely, interesting and intriguing city of Beirut. With each day posing different challenges I have kind of become fond of this place because it's making me stronger than ever. Its people, its culture, its weather and its food have certainly influenced me. I have started appreciating the positive aspects of my life here and also trying to ignore the negative ones with utmost care whilst getting accustomed to 'it's Lebanon' attitude!
As the 'discovery phase' is almost over for me, now I have become a pro in my daily adventures and I am happy about it. With my little Arabic I can now convince the taxi drivers that I am not a fool ajanabi that they can charge more and so even have had pretty smooth taxi rides since past month with fewer questions about my ethnicity and my profession.
However, I must tell you this: the obsession of Lebanese people about categorization is astonishing. They need to know where the person is coming from, his/her profession and, if possible, financial status. They will scan you from toe to head and start their silent or at times verbal judgments about your dressing. I had never experienced this before and so when I asked around my Lebanese international friends about it, they said it's for one simple reason that they do it: they need to know that they are in some way superior to you especially if you are a brown woman. At times, the eyes of these people give away what they are thinking and I have kind of started enjoying that monumental shift of regards when I reveal that though I might resemble their maid, I am not one and that I work at the UN...
The external appearances sadly seem to have a higher value here. Even in the Fashion Capital of the world, you can wear whatever you want and not care about it, but not here as it's Lebanon! The society demands the superficiality. The increasing percentage of cosmetic surgeries among women makes me wonder if they will ever see beyond make-up and will ever reach the heart. Are they so afraid of being natural? Frankly speaking, these women flaunting their nose jobs and boob jobs completely screwing the definition of 'beautiful', look all the same to me! It's so fake! These (outer) image-conscious citizens here are even supported (?!!) financially by Lebanon's National bank which gives loans amounting to approximately 5000$ when the majority of Lebanese people struggle to meet ends and should be supported for that. Completely messed up priorities? yes, because sadly it's Lebanon.
However, I must tell you this: the obsession of Lebanese people about categorization is astonishing. They need to know where the person is coming from, his/her profession and, if possible, financial status. They will scan you from toe to head and start their silent or at times verbal judgments about your dressing. I had never experienced this before and so when I asked around my Lebanese international friends about it, they said it's for one simple reason that they do it: they need to know that they are in some way superior to you especially if you are a brown woman. At times, the eyes of these people give away what they are thinking and I have kind of started enjoying that monumental shift of regards when I reveal that though I might resemble their maid, I am not one and that I work at the UN...
The external appearances sadly seem to have a higher value here. Even in the Fashion Capital of the world, you can wear whatever you want and not care about it, but not here as it's Lebanon! The society demands the superficiality. The increasing percentage of cosmetic surgeries among women makes me wonder if they will ever see beyond make-up and will ever reach the heart. Are they so afraid of being natural? Frankly speaking, these women flaunting their nose jobs and boob jobs completely screwing the definition of 'beautiful', look all the same to me! It's so fake! These (outer) image-conscious citizens here are even supported (?!!) financially by Lebanon's National bank which gives loans amounting to approximately 5000$ when the majority of Lebanese people struggle to meet ends and should be supported for that. Completely messed up priorities? yes, because sadly it's Lebanon.
So as you must have guessed it rightly 'it's Lebanon' is an excuse here. For anything that's not working, for anything that's weird and for anything that's below normal acceptance levels! Most of the times this motto is used as a pretext to back up the inefficiency of the political leaders, public services, administration and etc. etc. For example, if there is load shedding every day for three to six hours it's not because the Electricity board is inefficient and that there is a lot of corruption, but because 'it's Lebanon'. Any sane person would wonder why this beautiful country doesn't use its terrific natural resources such as sea, water, wind and sun to produce the electricity and light up the country! When complained to about the bad connectivity, our Internet guy actually said that the situation is same all over Beirut and as 'it's Lebanon' it won't change in the near future! I cannot tell how frustrated I get every time I need to recharge my phone because the telecommunication is so darn expensive! 1 dollar for three minutes of local call?! And mind you, though hardly anybody actually earns in dollars, people here spend in dollars.
The mentality must change drastically in a positive direction. A fresh example: this evening when I was on my way to meet some friends, I saw three kids playing football on the road. When I walked past them one of the kids came and touched my behind, just like that. Obviously, I wasn't going to accept such a crude behavior and that too from a 10-year-old kid. I did the needful scolding and when later in the evening I discussed it with my landlady she said, to all my indignation 'it's Lebanon' and such things are normal here! I mean, come on! How can this be normal? If such small kids are indulging themselves in these acts what can you expect from their elder brothers, uncles, and fathers? It is all very infuriating and, unfortunately, I can't do anything but to say 'it's Lebanon'.
Even so, the country definitely has a lot of potentials. Slight changes in policy and decision making could take Lebanon on a completely higher and different scale than its neighbors. And then the helplessness behind 'it's Lebanon' will be replaced by pride. I think the problem here is that everybody takes everything for granted and has accepted that this is how things are supposed to be. They believe that somehow the problems will be solved on their own. Ha! If only that was true! Though the whole civil war period wasn't really glorious for Lebanon and it traumatized its people, now it's time get past it and look at the future which can be bright. 'It's Lebanon' should be something they refer to proudly.
The awesomeness of this place kind of fades away under these negative things. But like every black cloud, this one also the silver lining. Though racism is a part of their daily lives, Lebanon is the only country in the region that is tolerant of various sects and religions. The biggest mosque and the biggest church in Beirut are situated next to each other and to me that's fantastic! People are generally welcoming though they first might scan you with their judgmental goggles. The freshness and quality of fruits and vegetables are incomparable! Seeing pine trees on sea shore is a miracle for me! Food is exquisite and delicious! This, too, is because it's Lebanon!
I hope I will remember this place for its good aspects and that the negativity won't affect me much! After all 'it's Lebanon' and I am proud to be here!
Even so, the country definitely has a lot of potentials. Slight changes in policy and decision making could take Lebanon on a completely higher and different scale than its neighbors. And then the helplessness behind 'it's Lebanon' will be replaced by pride. I think the problem here is that everybody takes everything for granted and has accepted that this is how things are supposed to be. They believe that somehow the problems will be solved on their own. Ha! If only that was true! Though the whole civil war period wasn't really glorious for Lebanon and it traumatized its people, now it's time get past it and look at the future which can be bright. 'It's Lebanon' should be something they refer to proudly.
The awesomeness of this place kind of fades away under these negative things. But like every black cloud, this one also the silver lining. Though racism is a part of their daily lives, Lebanon is the only country in the region that is tolerant of various sects and religions. The biggest mosque and the biggest church in Beirut are situated next to each other and to me that's fantastic! People are generally welcoming though they first might scan you with their judgmental goggles. The freshness and quality of fruits and vegetables are incomparable! Seeing pine trees on sea shore is a miracle for me! Food is exquisite and delicious! This, too, is because it's Lebanon!
I hope I will remember this place for its good aspects and that the negativity won't affect me much! After all 'it's Lebanon' and I am proud to be here!
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